Saturday, November 22, 2008

P.S.

It is currently snowing-ish here. Not much, and it's not quite cold enough to stay, but for now, the tile roofs look beautiful...Belgium really is an incredibly picturesque place.

the view from my window- it looks nicer in person...

Friday, November 21, 2008

on race and history (and the disparity between the views of many Europeans and my own)

So many newspaper headlines here focus on the progress that the United States has made- going from a country seemingly populated by racists to one that has just elected a black man as president (or as the papers are fond of saying "there will now be a black family in the White House"). They also speculate whether Europe could ever have "a European Obama". This morning, I read a letter to the editor in response to this. The woman noted that there was a Belgian politician originally from Africa who could potentially be the "Belgian Obama", if you will. Now, I may be misreading the reaction and sentiments of the citizens of the United States in relation to the election, but to me, it is more important that our president-elect is progressive than the fact that his skin color is darker than mine. While I do see it as a huge accomplishment that we have elected an African-American as our president, I am more proud of the unprecidented number of people who voted (notably the amount of young voters), the spirit and enthusiasm that seemed to affect everyone, the fact that so many people got involved in the campaign and in politics, and the sheer quantity of historical figures and moments that came out of this election. As viewed from afar (but through an American's point of view) I think that this election really brought home the sense that our government is a government "of the people, and by the people" (to quote Abraham Lincoln), and that is truly a sentiment unique to the United States of America. Or at least that's how I feel...

But what bothers me most is the sentiment that I am feeling, that Europe views the United States as finally growing up from "that horrible racism". I may be completely misreading the situation, but it seems as though the US is looked down upon for the way African-Americans were treated in the past centuries and decades. And for good reason. But, the other countries of the world should not feel that they are any more superior for their supposed lack of racism and intolerance. There were serfs in the Middle Ages and the Holocaust in the 1940s. And today, just as the United States struggles with the influx of Mexican immigrants looking for work, Belgium is learning to live with a population of immigrants- namely those from Turkey and Morocco, who came during the job boom of the 1970s. But while Latino culture and indeed most other "foreign cultures" have seeped into the mainstream American culture (although really, is there one singular "American culture"?), the Turkish culture and Belgian culture remain very separate, even after 40 years. Indeed, they seem almost loathe to begin the contact that must surely happen in such a small country. And while Belgian schools are required to offer Islam as a religion class to those who are Muslim, many cities do not allow Muslim women who work in governmental office to wear a headscarf. So I say that it is not just the United States that has work to do, but everyone, and instead of pointing fingers towards those who need change, we should all look at ourselves and our own society, and notice those things that need changing.

I was reading my host brother's girlfriend's blog from the semester she spent at Yale last year. In one of her posts, she noted how the US had made her notice the color of other people's skin, something which she did not like at all. And she noted that many of the waiters in restaurants, cabbies and truck drivers are "colored" (ie. Latino, African-American etc.), making her feel as though she belonged to the "entitled class", if you will. It's interesting, but I never really noticed the separation of cultures in the United States. Or at least not as much as I do now. I think it's not so much the United States that creates this change of awareness, but being outside of your comfort zone and away from the mix of cultures (or lack thereof) that you are used to. One thing that I have noticed (and have discussed at great length with some of the other American AFS students) is the lack of politically-correctness here (and I think in most other countries in the world). I think maybe because we have so many different groups of people living together in the United States, we feel the need to make sure we don't offend anyone. And I'm not sure that's such a bad thing (it can, of course be taken to the extreme). In Belgium, it is perfectly acceptable to imitate Chinese, even in front of a Chinese person, something that would definitely not fly in the Bay Area. And a few times, I have been shocked by what some of my other AFS friends have said, things that in the the United States would be considered racist. But here it's not, and this unexpected culture-shock has taken (and will take) a little bit of time to get used to. Surprisingly, like my host brother's girlfriend, I'm a little upset that Belgium/ my exchange has forced me to look outside my comfort zone regarding race and ethnicity. It's so easy to blame Belgium and Europeans, but at the same time, I acknowledge that this is a necessary and very important part of my development here. I'm not sure whether I'm upset by the fact that not everyone is as tolerant or respectful as I would like to imagine (please note, I realize this sounds incredibly naive. I know that many people harbor racist sentiments and can be outright intolerant. But in my optimistic mind, I feel that our society is overall getting beyond that...) or because I feel like my culture and country is being misrepresented in such an ugly way. Either way, something is bothering me- more than I had thought it would...

Another interesting thing to note- in Dutch, the word "gay" translates to "homo". Technically speaking, this isn't offensive, but because I've grown up hearing the word "homo" used primarily in a derogatory sense, it still feels strange to use it in conversations. And thus, the beauty of culture shock rears its incredibly confusing head...

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

November 4, 2008: a day that will live in history

I was going through my economie notes the other day, and I came across a set that had this written at the top: "Nov. 4: a day that will live in________". Being the history buff that I am, this was obviously a reference to FDR's "Day in Infamy" speech, given after the bombings at Pearl Harbor. If I remember correctly, I wrote that when it looked like it would be a close race, and I was genuinely concerned about the outcome of the election. That was all during the pre-election excitement. And now that the most exciting and historical election of the past several elections is over, it feels a little bit like the day after Christmas.

Election Day 2008: Because of the time difference (9 hours ahead of California, 6 ahead of New York), none of the results started coming in until 1 or 2 in the morning, so despite my best efforts, I was asleep.

November 5, 2008: I got up early to watch the results come in (around 5:30 am). When I turned the TV on downstairs, I saw Obama standing in front of a row of American flags just about to start his acceptance speech. I almost screamed. I spent the next 45 minutes or so watching his speech and by the time my host mom came downstairs, I was curled in a blanket on the couch, crying while the whole family waved to the crowd (I wasn't the only one, Jesse Jackson cried too). Funnily enough, it didn't really sink in until a few days later that we had just elected a new president. I think its because the last two elections (the ones when I was actually old enough to understand what was going on) were a) an ordeal- the Florida recount took forever, and didn't really allow for the immediate celebrations of a normal election; and b) we voted in the incumbent. So this election was really the first that I remember that went as it was supposed to. That whole day, everyone was congratulating me and I got several emails from other AFS students around the country saying how happy they were etc. Its funny, the entire world seems to be celebrating Obama's election.
Unfortunately, the California ballot propositions took a while longer to be counted, so I was constantly checking online to see if all the precincts had reported. Needless to say, I'm very happy that Prop 4 failed, and very upset that Prop 8 passed. Nevertheless, I'm proud of what our country has accomplished this election, and I know that California's gay rights activists will not rest until gay marriage becomes legal, so I am hopeful too for the future.

And then there were the speeches. Wow. As usual, Obama gave me shivers with his Acceptance Speech. I thought he blended the right amount of celebration and hope with a call for responsibility on the part of the American public and a reminder of the challenges we face and the changes that will need to be made, not only by the government and those in power, but also by each person. And of course there was the typical Obama amazingness with his strong oratorial skills and almost call-and-response with the audience: "Yes We Can!".

Even more meaningful, I thought, was John McCain's speech. I don't think he could have endorsed Obama any more graciously. Despite all the nastiness during his campaign, I felt like his speech was the true call for bi-partisianship, and a reminder of what it means to be an American citizen. So while Sarah Palin has left me with a little bit of fear for the direction the Republican Party might be going, Senator McCain impressed me with his humility and dedication to the well-being of the country, even when he was not the victor. There is hope after all...


the front page of De Morgen on November 6

Sunday, November 2, 2008

10 little things that make me extraordinarily happy...

1. when it has just rained and there's still water in between the glass of bus windows. When the bus moves, it makes waves and looks like those science experiments at the Exploratorium in San Francisco.
2. when my train is a double-decker one and I can choose between upstairs or downstairs and it's never crowded so I can read my Metro (the Dutch version, not French) in peace and not have to share the table.
3. when the people under 19 get in free at cool places like Gravensteen or Rubens' house. Or when zoos offer free entrance for students with bananas.
4. the clear, crisp smell of the air after a few days of rain.
5. playing Jungle Speed. It's really fun when I win, but also fun to have a good story afterward of the fight for the totem pole thing.
6. wandering around Leuven with spoons and jars of speculoos
7. watching the presidential debates on my iPod on the train
8. eating baked apples with cinnamon and ice cream and hot chocolate sauce for dessert
9. climbing castle towers
10. wearing mismatched or white socks (even though they don't do either here in Belgium)

Thursday, October 30, 2008

politics! cont. (Amerikaans verkiezing 2008)

so this isn't about Belgium. or at least not this part. But the US election is in 4 days, and I have a few things to say. I'll try and keep it appropriate, so that in the event that I ever decide to run for public office I won't have a Blogger-gate to do me in. So anyway, my thoughts on the election:

1) I am obviously an Obama supporter. This is not just because he is the Democratic candidate. I have been incredibly impressed by the organization and effectiveness of his campaign. While we were hearing news about the fighting within McCain's campaign, and the $150,000 spent on clothes/ accessories for the hockey mom and her family, I received an email from the Obama campaign with a subject line of "how Maria can change America". I think that's the way we should be looking right now, not pointing fingers and placing labels.

2) Fear: it is what seems to drive the McCain/ Palin rallys (again, this was never going to be a subjective post. I realize it's biased). There's fear of change, fear of terrorists, fear of differences, fear of Obama etc. And the main battle-cry? (aside from calling Obama a socialist, saying that he "pals around with terrorists", that he's Muslim, or that he's inexperienced) They're concerned because "we don't really know who Barack Obama is". Excuse me? He's spent the last 2 years in the public eye campaigning, plus he has two autobiographical books in bookstores. And we supposedly don't know who he is? Right, because Sarah Palin and her family don't have any secrets/suspicious activities and they've been campaigning for a lot longer than 2 months...not.

3) The debates. They're best seen (in my opinion) on one's iPod on the train to Brussel/ Leuven/ Antwerpen. They're also best seen if one is an Obama supporter. Otherwise, one would most likely spend the entire time cringing while watching McCain flounder (I was disappointed by his performance, I remember him as being more forceful and put together). My favorite was the 3rd, because it was really the only one that included interaction between the candidates. However, that whole "Joe-the-Plumber" business bothered (and still bothers) me. We're not voting on Joe the Plumber, we're voting on a candidate who hopefully has views/ policies about the issues we should be hearing about during the debate. And to be fair, Obama also addressed Mr. Plumber...

4) I feel like this election has gotten too partisan. I realize that that's what happenes during elections, but when you have a campaign that distinguishes between "Real America" and "Fake America" then I think you have bigger problems. I also feel like a lot of the election has gotten to be too personal- with one candidate calling the other on their history or something they've done. I think it should be about what they will do, about the state of the country and the world and about the American people and the issues and policies that affect us. That's what ultimately matters. I am, however, very pleased with Colin Powell and the Chicago Tribune's endorsement of Obama. It certainly means something to have two major Republican or Republican-leaning voices endorse a Democratic candidate. Maybe our country can pull together and pull through after all...

Sunday, October 19, 2008

we komen aan in Brussel-Centraal

traveling in Belgium could read somewhat like a MasterCard commercial:

1 GoPass (10 one-way train fares to anywhere in Belgium)= 46 EUR
1 BuzzyPass (unlimited bus and tram as long as it's a DeLijn bus/tram)= 162 EUR
1 waffle from Panos for the train ride= 1,60 EUR
the ability to travel anywhere in Belgium within an hour= priceless

Belgium is a country with about 10 million people (that's 3 million more than the San Francisco Bay Area) and has just a little bit more land. Therefore, everything is compact- cars, travel times, houses, supermarkets etc. When I first got here, I was told that Brugge was a nice day trip, but that Brussels is a little farther, and might not be as easy. Coming from California, where you can drive for 9 hours and still be stuck in LA traffic, I imagined a 2 or 3 hour train ride. But no, from Gent-Sint-Pieters (a gorgeous train station, btw) to Brussel-Centraal, it is approximately a 30-45 minute train ride.
So now take Belgium (little bigger than the Bay Area) and divide it in fifths. 3/5s are Wallonia and 2/5s are Flanders. Now take Flanders and add approximately 150 AFS students. As you can see, the population density of AFSers is very high. This makes for lots of fun outings/ chance encounters with everyone else.
A few days ago, I went to Brussel with Bryan (AFSer from Cincinnati) after school (we get out at 12 on Wednesdays). While walking around, we saw a ton of police officers in front of some royal/ official building, so we stopped and waited to see what would happen. We ended up waiting for about 30 minutes in the rain under some tree in the park across the street, but all we saw were a few guys in business suits give us strange looks as they walked back and forth from the cars parked in front to the building. But I do think it was something important- probably something to do with the king. It's little things like this that make wandering in Belgium so much fun: being surrounded by Spaniards all decked out and already celebrating for the Spain/ Belgium World Cup Qualifying Game (Spain won, 2-1), finding some random Roman ruin next to the economic department building in Brussel, buying a bunch of bananas in Antwerp so we could get in to the zoo free and then being on TV as we gave them to a Belgian actress, running into all the Brazilians at the kathedral in Antwerp, listening to a mariachi band in Brugge and then getting lost for an hour on our way to the chocolate museum etc...this is what makes being an AFSer so much fun.

Sunday, October 12, 2008

welcome to The Great Language Barrier...

So I babysat my neighbor last night, she's three and absolutely adorable. And I honestly think I may have learned more Dutch in the 6 hours spent with her than at all my Dutch lessons combined. We read books most of the time, which was great for my Dutch, but once you've read Ivo gaan boodschaapen doen about 7 times, you've had enough with Ivo and Mama and Tante Rosa and Paultje. It was an interesting night, seeing as she doesn't speak English, my Dutch is rather limited at this point and she speaks with a mixture of French and Dutch because her mom speaks French and dad speaks Dutch. So I was running on intuition a lot of the time while trying to decipher what she was saying. But despite all that, we had a great time, and it was actually surprisingly easy after a while to communicate. And all the effort was worth it when she woke me up in the morning (I spent the night because her parents were out late) with a big kiss and another book to read. Maybe that language barrier isn't so big after all...

In other news, I made scones yesterday- the ones my mom always makes for everything. It was pretty amusing, because I had my laptop at the kitchen table since I had to keep checking the internet for temperature conversions, ingredient translations and such. They actually turned out just as they always do, only a little bit tough- I think I got over excited during the kneading process. But anyway, Annelies and Frederik (my host-brother and his girlfriend who live in Leuven) were here and we ate them for breakfast. It's interesting, because in Belgium, they don't have scones, so it was a very new experience for everyone- something that I hadn't really expected, although I guess scones are more from England, but I'm a little surprised they haven't traveled over here, seeing as Belgium is only about an hour away from England.

Enough about my scones- here's a picture of me, Annelies and Frederik that Laura took a few weeks ago at the Graslei:

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

politics!

So first off, Belgium is really split into two (technically 3, but for all intensive purposes, I'll leave Brussel out) groups: the Walloons- from Wallonia, they French-speaking south, and the Flemish- from Flanders, the Dutch-speaking north (ie. where I am). Despite both being a part of the Kingdom of Belgium (the official name for Belgium), a country that is only about 4000 square miles larger than the Bay Area, these two groups not only have their own political parties, news stations and languages, they also have separate Parliaments. But they are both part of Belgium and therefore both participate in national elections/ decisions etc.
Secondly, Belgium is a multi-party system. Granted, my opionions may be (read: are) biased, but I think that the way the multi-party system works, the parties spend too much time making what we call a kartel in Dutch (basically a block) against other parties by working to get enough people/ parties to out-vote another. This in turn seems to take time away from other issues at hand.
I may have a skewed view of the political interests of teens in the VS (JSA can do that sometimes), but overall, they are much more involved/ interested in politics than teens here- everyone is actually. At risk of sounding cliché, the government of the United States really is the people's government (relatively speaking at least).  It's amazing to me how little Belgians feel connected to their government.  There is really an "us" and a "them" attitude about their elected officials and what they're doing.  This is especially apparent amongst teenagers.  While they are pretty much aware of the main parties and some key current events, we never talk about current events or politics or philosophy etc either in or out of class.  I think a lot of this difference is that in the US, it's a cool thing to be aware of what's going on in the government, to have opinions about decisions or ideas and to discuss/ debate them with peers.  So far, I haven't found that here.  So while we learn about the political parties (of which there are many) in history, we don't discuss their party platform, or the decisions that are currently being made.  
I'm sure this will be a constant discussion here, but I actually want to post this and stop sitting around, thinking about what else to say.  So for now, I guess it will have to end with a to be continued...

Thursday, October 2, 2008

this is what happens when you stare out the window during class...

The other day, I was staring out the window in Godsdienst (Religion) and I saw something that I think is worth sharing, although sadly I didn't have my camera with me at the time to document it. From the window, I can see the tower (or is it steeple? do Catholic churches have steeples?) of Sint-Baafskathedral, which is currently under renovation, so there's scaffolding almost to the top and a big crane next to it. For the past few weeks, there has been a porta-potty on one of the upper levels of the scaffolding. At first I thought it was funny that there was such a contrast in old, fancy church-ness and a dark green plastic supersize porta-potty, but it makes sense, no?
Anyway, the other day, I looked out the window and saw the crane lowering the porta-potty back down. This makes sense too, except it was really funny to see a porta-potty spinning around about 200 feet up in air next to Sint-Baafskathedral. I'm sure none of you find it quite as amusing as I do (it's one of those "you had to be there" moments I think), but it makes me laugh to think about it, so I thought I'd share it. For reference, here's a picture of Sint-Baafskathedral (which btw is the namesake of our school. St. Bavo's feast day was yesterday, 1 Oktober.)

a typical day at Sint-Bavo

for a school day on maandag, donderdag en vrijdag (Monday, Thursday and Friday, respectively)- Tuesday and Wednesday (half day!- all students in Belgium get out at 12) are different.

7:00- wake up, go downstairs and have breakfast with my host-mom: cereal and coffee, make my lunch
7:30- back upstairs to get dressed/ ready for school (my school has a uniform, so it shouldn't take long to get dressed, but sometimes it's hard to find clean socks...)
7:53- race out the door because my bus comes at 7:55
7:55 (never later- the public transportation here in Belgium is awesomely on-time)- wedge myself between people on the over-crowded bus to school. I'll spend the next 10 minutes breathing peoples hair products and being far closer to strangers than any normal situation would call for.
8:08- arrive at school (Sint-Bavohumaniora, in the historical center of Gent. Sint-Bavo is a Catholic school, but in Belgium Catholic schools get government funding as well, so it's not private. We're known as the "groentjes" (or "little green ones") because our uniforms are green.) and make the first trip of many to my locker (which, for those of you who went to Canyon (I don't know what the Creekside lockers looked like), are about the size of our little PE lockers- the ones in 6th grade where we had to have a separate combination lock. And they have a key, not a combo lock.). Then it's off to find the other 6th years until the bell rings.
8:15- bell rings. We all have to line up according to class and then listen to the headmistress read the announcements, the bible, the school rules, poetry etc enz. During this time, the teachers walk up and down the rows making sure we're all in uniform, facing front and being quiet. The quiet part is kind of a wasted effort. (this is for Tuesday-Friday. On Monday, school starts at 8:35, because the internaats move in. Sint-Bavo is also a boarding school, so the internaats (boarders) move in on Monday, stay until Friday and then go home for the weekend)
8:25- first class of the day begins. each class is 50 minutes and we have 7 classes a day, not including lunch. There are 2 classes in the morning, and then...
10:10- 10 minute break
10:20- 2 more classes before lunch
12:00- LUNCH! we have an hour and a half for lunch, and 6th years are allowed out of the school for lunch (it's a closed campus for everyone else), so we usually eat in the city somewhere
1:20- three more classes
4:00- school's out. last locker trip of the day and then I either take the bus home, or stay in the city and do any necessary shopping/ exploring.

my schedule:
maandag- Godsdeinst, Engels, Geschiedenis, Nederlands, LO, LO, Fysica
dinsdag- AFS Dutch lesson in the morning (I miss two periods of Economie, one of Chemie and one free), free, free, free
woensdag- Engels, free, free, free
donderdag- Economie, Seminarie Economie, Biologie, free, Economie, Esthetica, Nederlands
vrijdag- free, Nederlands, Geschiedenis, free, Godsdienst, Aardrijkskunde, Nederlands


*note: I have free periods when the rest of my class has French, German and math, so I go to either the library or the study hall.
godsdienst= religion
engels= englsih
geschiedenis= history
nederlands= dutch
LO (lichamelijke opvoeding)= PE
fysica= physics
chemie= chemistry
economie= economics
seminarie economie= we're creating our own small business (business plans, bookkeeping, entrepeneurship etc)
biologie= biology
esthetica= esthetics- basically art and music history
aardrijkskunde= geography


inkomensverdeling, babbeltjes and bohemian rhapsody

So, I'm in Economie-Wiskunde (for those of you unfamiliar with the European school system-which would be most of you- students choose a focus-a little like a major-during the last half of secondary school (which by the way is 6 years- the equivalent of 7th grade in the US to 12th grade) and take classes with other students in their "track" that are specialized for that interest. For example, I have 5 hours of econ a week whereas someone who's taking Latin-Greek might only have 1), but because there's only 6 of us, we're combined with the rest of 6B (ie. Economie- Moderne Talen) for most of our classes. Economie- Moderne Talen (Economics- Modern Languages; Economie-Wiskunde is Economics- Math) is known at Sint-Bavo as the "easy class" and has a bit of a reputation as having the not-so-bright students of the 6th year. And I'm not going to lie- some of them fit that category perfectly. But everyone (well, almost) talks. And I don't just mean at break or before class starts. Always, when the teacher is teaching or talking, when someone else is talking, just after being reprimanded for talking etc. I've never seen anything like it in a classroom before. And the teachers don't punish anyone (apparently, it's allowed, but no one does it). So we spend the whole period of economie on 2 questions (ie. doing nothing) while my econ teacher bangs on the window wither her keys in an effort to get us to shut up. It doesn't work, but one of these days, she's going to break a window.
And then there's Esthetica (basically art- and music-history), which is a whole nother can of worms...basically, the teacher can't teach, the student's aren't interested and Mr. Van Tricht looks really funny when he plays the piano. That combined with the fact that we don't have to take notes (or pay attention for that matter) because all his powerpoints/ notes are posted online, is enough to create chaos.